NEW “Swedish Wrap Method” SET of Extrusion Dies for Getting the Smallest Sizes from the Large Coins!

Up until recently, it was nearly impossible to get very small sized coin rings fro the larger coins, while being able to preserve 100% of the coins’ detail…. until now!

There is a new technique called the “Swedish Wrap Method”, and it has truly revolutionized the way that larger coins are made into the smallest-sized coin rings.

The general idea is that AFTER you’ve folded over your larger coin, (such as the American Silver Eagle, Morgan Dollar, Challenge Coin, etc), you would then anneal the coin, wrap it in teflon tape, and then using different size-diameter brass push rods, begin to compress the coin FROM THE REEDED EDGE down into a series of shallow reduction dies until you achieve the shape and size that you’re looking for.

After having prototyped several combinations of die heights and inner wall pitches, (tapers); I went with this particular Swedish Wrap combination because this really achieves the “sweet spot” between both die height and inner wall pitch: not too short, not too tall… not too steep; and not too shallow. This particular combination produces some of the best and most consistent results, while allowing you to be in better control of your work.

 

COMPLETE Swedish Wrap Die SET

COMPLETE Swedish Wrap Die SET

My complete Set that I’m offering folks at my Shop Page comes with THREE 1.5” tall ”Swedish Wrap” Dies made of hardened stainless steel, 4 Brass Push Rods that are all double-sided (for a total of EIGHT different outer diameter-sized options when extruding), 2 rolls of Teflon thread tape, and a *BONUS* piece of tough impact-resistant urethane pad that you can use on the ends of the push rods to both protect the reeded-end of the coin, and the brass push rod end. (You simply take a pen and trace each of the 8 outer diameter push rod ends onto the urethane pad and then cut them out to end up with 8 different-sized urethane “discs”).

* A major benefit that this combination of die height and inner wall pitch offers is the option of bottoming out the coin ring in the first die, and then switching to the next smaller-sized Swedish Wrap die without having to push the coin ring all the way out the bottom of the initial die. You can, however, extrude the coin ring through the bottom of any of the three dies if you choose to without damaging the coin ring’s detail; as each die has been machined with a unique beveled relief at the bottom that allows for this process.
* Another major benefit to this Swedish Wrap Set is that you only have to use ONE brass push rod working through the die to bottom out your coin ring in any of the 3 dies in the set. This eliminates the extra step as well as the potential for slipping when stacking multiple pushers on top of each other.

Brass push rod and Swedish Wrap Die in my arbor press

Brass push rod and Swedish Wrap Die in my arbor press

This complete 3-die Set offers a total of 4.5″ inches of workable inner die wall to compress coin rings; and it gives you the full range for extruding coin rings all the way from nearly 1.450″ in outer diameter, down to just .765″ in outer diameter!

*** SWEDISH WRAP METHOD STEPS: ***

After folding your coin ring (using the regular Universal Reduction dies), find the correct diameter brass push rod that covers the majority of the reeded-end of your coin. After annealing and wrapping the coin in Teflon thread tape, you place it into the appropriate sized die, with the reeded edge facing UP. Next you place the appropriate-sized urethane disc onto the top of the reed side of the coin, and place your push rod on top of that. The urethane creates a protective barrier between the two metal surfaces and helps to preserve the detail of the reeds as well as the brass push rod end.

Begin to compress (extrude) the coin down the die, pulling the coin out after every press to re-anneal and re-wrap the coin, and when necessary; flipping the brass push rod over to the next smaller diameter size to continue compressing the coin down the die.
Starting with the LARGE (marked 1.4”) and followed by the MEDIUM (marked 1.2”) Swedish Wrap dies, I have been able to reduce American Silver Eagles, Morgan Dollars, and even Challenge Coins down to a size 9 while only BOTTOMING the coins out in the Medium (1.2”) die.

The “SMALL” Swedish Wrap die in the set (marked 1.1”) can be used to compress the Half Dollar-sized coins down to roughly a size 3.5 with full extrusion, and can also be used to further compress the larger-sized coins such as the American Silver Eagle, Morgan/Peace Dollars, Challenge Coins, etc., down to a tiny size 1! As with the larger Swedish Wrap dies, you can then “tuck in” the edges of the coin using either the Universal 17°, 20°, or the 25° “Fat Tire” Folding and Reduction Dies also found at my Shop Page for a rounded-look while bringing those larger coin rings down to a size 00 – 000.

The SMALL Swedish Wrap die (marked 1.1″), can even be used to compress US Quarter-sized coins down to a size 4 when fully extruded out the bottom of the die. Then using the smaller reduction die of 0.7″ x 0.8″ (that I also offer at my Shop Page), you can further reduce US Quarter-sized coins to your final desired size!

 

Depending on the size and look that you’re going for, you can now either:

1.) Expand the thinner cut-side of your coin ring to match the outer diameter of your coin ring on your ring sizer machine for a “straight-walled” look;

2.) After Step 1, you can then further reduce the ring size by “tucking in” the edges of the coin using either the Universal 17°, 20°, or the 25° “Fat Tire” Folding and Reduction Dies (also found at my Shop Page) for a rounded “Fat Tire” look; or,

3.) You can continue to compress the coin ring further down the Swedish Wrap dies to achieve an overall smaller size.

Examples of small coin rings made from larger coins

Examples of small coin rings made from larger coins

 

FOR THE “STRAIGHT-WALLED” COIN RING LOOK:
For those wanting the “straight-walled” look, I like to compress the coin ring using my Swedish Wrap dies until I get to anywhere between ¼ size to a ½ size BELOW my target ring size. Then using my deburring tool, I will remove the appropriate amount of material from the INSIDE of the thicker reeded part of the coin until I achieve my proper target size. Next, I expand out the thinner cut-side of the coin ring on my ring sizer machine until the sides of the coin ring are straight.

 

FOR THE ROUNDED “FAT-TIRE” COIN RING LOOK:
For those wanting a rounded-look to their coin rings, I will compress (“Swedish Wrap”) the coin to anywhere from 1 to 3 sizes OVER my target size. You can then use your appropriate-sized Universal 17° or 20° die to “tuck in” the sides until you achieve your final ring size, or you can use your 25° Fat Tire die to achieve an even more rounded “Fat Tire” look.

 

PLEASE KEEP THE FOLLOWING IN MIND WHEN USING THIS TECHNIQUE:

1.) TAKE YOUR TIME, especially when first starting out. I recommend Swedish Wrapping’ a few rings out of clad coins to get familiar with the process.

2.) Make sure that you anneal your coin OFTEN, ideally after every press or two. Doing so will make the process easier.

3.) Use a TON of Teflon pipe thread tape, and make sure to re-wrap your coin ring after each press and anneal. A 10-pack of the Teflon Tape can be purchased at HarborFreight.com for 2 dollars.

4.) Make sure that you firmly press the freshly re-wrapped coin ring and make sure that it is seated evenly in the die before pressing.

5.) Press SLOW and make sure that the brass push rod covers the majority of the reeded portion of the coin. If it doesn’t cover enough of the reeds, the push rod could slip as you’re compressing it, possibly ruining the coin ring. You can fix this issue by placing the coin ring, (reeded side DOWN) into either your Universal 17°, 20°, or 25° reduction die to slightly shrink the outer diameter of the reeded side until the brass push rod better covers the reeds.

6.) Make sure that you don’t over press the brass push rods down the Swedish Wrap dies, especially when using a hydraulic press. After some practice, you’ll feel the resistance of when each push rod bottoms out in the dies.

The tiny-sized coin rings can be incorporated into charms on necklaces, (see the 3rd listing photo for reference), bracelet charms, or even earrings. The possibilities are nearly endless!

You can find the Swedish Wrap Die Set at my Shop Page here

All of my coin ring-making  tools can be found at: http://www.CoinRingUSA.com

The ULTIMATE Way to Get Smooth and Rounded Edges to the Rough Cut Side of Coin Rings!

Clean up and smooth-out your coin rings’ rough cut edges!

There’s a lot of information available today on how to fold and reduce coins to make coin rings, but there’s almost no information on HOW to actually go about and professionally finish and polish the thinner, non-reeded cut edge of your coin rings.

This side of the coin ring was once the inner portion of the coin prior to the forging process, and it can be very difficult to get a smooth-looking finish due to the sharp and uneven edges that are present.

Polishing Mandrel Set pic ROUGH COPY

Rough and uneven coin ring edge BEFORE using the Finishing & Polishing Mandrel Set

An easy solution to this problem is to utilize a Set of what are called “Finishing and Polishing Mandrels”; which will give you that high-quality smooth finish and shine to the NON-REEDED edges of your coin rings by getting rid of those unsightly, uneven, sharp edges WITHOUT using nail buffing files, having to sand by hand, using steel round files, or even deburring tools.

This Polishing Mandrel Set will finish and polish any coin ring from an approximate US size of 5, up to a US size of 14.

The Kit comes with a German-made nickel plated steel shank complete with 3 interchangeable Tapered Mandrel Cones in varying sizes:

Small — (fits ring sizes of approx. 5-8),
Medium — (fits ring sizes of approx. 8.5-11), and
Large — (fits ring sizes of approx. 11-14).

Polishing Mandrel pic2COPY
The advantage to using the finishing and polishing mandrels is that as the ring is spinning, the power drill acts like a small lathe, providing a much more uniform finish to the ring than can be achieved with either hand-sanding, using a nail buffing file, a steel round-file, or even a small rotary tool such as a Dremel.

 

*** TO WATCH A VIDEO TUTORIAL ON THIS PROCESS, WATCH THE VIDEO BELOW ***

 

PROCESS:

1.) Determine which size Polishing Tapered Mandrel fits your completed coin ring, and slide the coin ring on to it.

2.) Place the Mandrel bit into your power drill and tighten.

3.) Adjust the coin ring until it’s well-balanced with no “wobbling” on the Mandrel with your power drill on, and then expand the Mandrel by tightening the Stainless Steel Phillips head set screw at the top which holds the coin ring securely in place.

4.) Begin on the outer edge of the coin ring with the coarser 100 Grit sandpaper and work your way around to the inner edge of the coin ring; making sure that ONLY the corner tip of the sandpaper is making contact with the unfinished inner, top, and outer edges of your coin ring to prevent damage to the rings’ detail.

5.) Continue to work the inner, top, and outer edges of the NON-REEDED side using the finer Grits of sandpaper as you go; finishing with “0000” Steel Wool. You can also use the steel wool and LIGHTLY go over the inner and the outer detail of the coin ring before you either polish it with a jeweler’s cloth or after you’ve put a patina (antique-looking) finish on the ring.

6.) The final step is to use a jeweler’s cloth to both buff and finish-polish your coin ring.

Your ring will now have a highly-smoothed, rounded, and polished edge on the NON-REEDED side that is not often seen on coin rings!

Smooth and even coin edge AFTER using the Finishing & Polishing Mandrel Set

Smooth and even coin ring edge AFTER using the Finishing & Polishing Mandrel Set

 

Another example below:

Before AND After COPY of finished coin rings

* Click on the photo to enlarge to see the differences in the edges of this Walking Liberty Half Dollar *

Other materials needed: a power drill, 3 different grits of sandpaper (150 Grit, 400 Grit, and 600 Grit ideally), some “0000” Steel Wool, and a jeweler’s polishing cloth to complete this process. Those items can be purchased from Amazon.com; at a big box store like Home Depot, or any local hardware store inexpensively.

 

*** SAFETY FIRST ***
– Always wear safety glasses and work gloves.
– Always use caution when working with any power tools and electricity.
– Keep fingers, long hair, and loose clothing away from any fast moving parts.

How to Fix a Wobbly or Uneven Coin Ring with a Repair Die

If you’ve made any of a number of coin rings, you know that at times, your coin can become uneven, or “wobbly” looking; (commonly found on thinner, smaller coins that have high reliefs, such as the Washington Quarter or the Benjamin Franklin Half Dollar). This can also happen if you fold your coin too quickly into your reduction die if it’s not level to begin with while you’re folding it down.

If that happens, you can use a new tool called a “Coin Ring Repair Die” along with a piece of high-impact and cut-resistant Urethane Pad on any ring sizing machine, arbor press, or hydraulic press to help straighten the wobbly coin ring out.

Coin Ring Repair Die KIT… notice the slight “wobble” at the top before the “L” of the word LIBERTY on this Walking Liberty Half Dollar

The Coin Ring Repair Die (pictured above) is made out of a solid piece of Hardened Steel and can also be used as a sizing “Press Plate” when you’re using an arbor press or a hydraulic press to reduce your coin down to its’ final shape and size.

The piece of red impact-resistant urethane pad (which is formulated for cut-resistance and memory retention) acts as a “buffer” between the ram head of either your ring sizing machine, arbor press or hydraulic press and the coin to help protect the delicate reeded edge detail of the coin from damage, as seen in the image below:

Coin Ring Repair Kit Listing Pics

 

This Coin Ring Repair Die and red Urethane Pad Kit makes a great addition to any Coin Ring makers’ toolbox.

UrethanePad

Red Urethane Pad, (Morgan Silver Dollar used for sizing reference.)

For a video on this technique, Click Here

Visit my online Shop Page to pick up the Wobbly Coin Ring Repair Kit

Be sure to click on the Blue “Follow” Button on this blog site and feel free to Subscribe to my YouTube channel found under “CoinRingUSA” for new coin ring-making tool updates as they come out.

*** For a complete list of the latest coin ring-making tools, visit: www.CoinRingUSA.com

How to STOP the “Slop” in a well-worn Coin BEFORE Making it into a Coin Ring

Oftentimes people make a coin ring out of a circulated coin. This is fine, except that there can be some “slop”, or play, from the distance of the edge of the reeded part of the coin and the retaining washer of your center punch kit, causing it to not fit snugly into the washer. The end result of this can be a slightly off-centered hole punched into the coin.

Notice the well-worn reeded edge of the coin.

Notice the well-worn reeded edge of the coin.

 

Typical retaining washer and a Walking Liberty Half Dollar coin:

sloppy coin2

Notice the “gap” between the reeded-edge of the coin and the retaining washer, (by the red arrow).

 

Another area where this coin “slop” can show up is when using my Stabilizer Reduction Dies; where the coin will seem to wiggle inside the top face of the die before you begin to fold it down, (again due to the gap caused by a well-worn or circulated coin).

sloppy coin3

Notice the slight gap between the reeded-edge of the coin and the outer edge of this Stabilizer Reduction Die due to wear, (by the red arrows).

 

A quick and easy fix to this problem is to use a piece of paper towel both BEFORE you punch a center hole into your coin, and before you begin the process of folding it down into a Stabilizer Reduction Die.

No more gap and a snug fit, ready for center-hole punching!

No more gap and a snug fit, ready for center-hole punching!

The paper towel will take up the slack that comes from using a circulated or well-worn coin and will give you a tight, snug fit; ensuring that your coin will not move either inside the washer (above), or inside the reduction die, (below).

A snug fit with no gaps!

A snug fit with no gaps!

 

Using this easy tip will give you a perfectly-centered hole punched and folded-over coin; resulting in a better-looking coin ring!

 

 

 

Tips for protecting your coin ring’s detail while forging it

What’s the best way to protect the inner and outer detail of my coin while I’m making it into a coin ring?

This is a question that I recently received from a customer of mine. There are some simple ways to protect your coin ring’s inner and outer detail while you’re forging it. In my own practice, I have 3 different tools that I can use when initially folding over, expanding, and then reducing the coin into a reduction die for final shaping:

1. A Ring Sizing Machine
This is my personal favorite.
A Durston ring sizing machine

A Durston ring sizing machine

2. A 1-ton Arbor Press
A Harbor Freight 1-ton arbor press

A Harbor Freight 1-ton arbor press

3. A 12-ton Shop Press (this is definitely way more press than you will ever need to use to make a coin ring; as you can easily use the 6-ton “A-frame” tabletop shop press from Harbor Freight if you want to).
12-ton Harbor Freight shop press

12-ton Harbor Freight shop press

Goal: to keep the reeded edge intact!
The outer reeded edge of Morgan Silver Dollars

The outer reeded edge of Morgan Silver Dollars

The best way to protect the inner detail of the coin as you begin to fold it down into your reduction die is to use the New and Improved Folding Cones. This method of folding leaves no marks, scratches, or marring, thus preserving 100% of the detail on the inside of the coin. (See photos below for reference):
Folding Cone pic COPY

Using a New Folding Cone to fold an American Silver Eagle with a Ring Sizer Machine

Improved Universal Folding Cones and Spacer Set, available for purchase at: www.FoldingCones.com

Improved Universal Folding Cones and Spacer Set, available for purchase at: http://www.FoldingCones.com

To purchase a Set of the 4 Universal Folding Cones and Spacer Kit, go to: www.FoldingCones.com

The key to protecting the outer edges of the coin ring as you’re reducing it is to use some impact-resistant plastic tape, which works very well in that it provides a buffer between the edge of the coin and either the ram head on your ring sizing machine, the press arm on a shop press, or the square ram on a 1-ton arbor press.

Below is a picture of my “Durston” Ring Sizing machine. Notice the thin grey layer of impact-resistant protective tape covering the ram head, (directly on top of the plastic bearing ball). This is what acts as a “buffer” and protects the outer edge of the coin that is facing UP from the reduction die as you are reducing it for shaping or final sizing of the coin ring.

Stabilizing Reduction Die pic

The impact-resistant tape (shown by the red arrows below), is also great for covering the bare metal on the expanding splines of the ring-sizing machine. This acts as a barrier between the inner side of the coin that is making contact as you are expanding it down the splines; also leaving no marks, scratches, or marring; thus protecting the inner detail of the coin ring as a result. (See photo below:)

Impact-resistant tape on the splines of my ring sizing machine.

Impact-resistant tape on the splines of my ring sizing machine.

Below is an example of the crisp inner detail of a finished proof 1975 Half Dollar from the country of Belize that I recently made for a customer, using the impact-resistant tape and the plastic bearing balls.

If you use these simple tools, your coin rings will turn out with striking detail!


Visit my Shop Page for all of the highest quality coin ring-making tools that I have to offer.

 

Belize Coin inner detail

Belize Coin inner detail

What types of coins make the best coin rings?

There are several factors to consider when selecting a coin to make into a coin ring; here are some main points to keep in mind:


Condition:
The main point to keep in mind is that the overall condition of the coin that you start out with will be the condition of your coin ring once you’ve finished the forging process. You want to make sure that the coin you’re using has as much detail intact on both the obverse (front) side and reverse (back) side as possible.

Worn US Quarter

A well-worn US Quarter

In the photo above, you would end up with a coin ring that was excessively worn on both sides of your coin ring.

In contrast, the particular Walking Liberty Half Dollar coin (shown below), has really good detail and would make a great coin ring. These coins were minted between 1916-1947 and contain 90% silver.

A Walking Liberty Half Dollar in good condition.

A Walking Liberty Half Dollar in good condition.

 

Silver or Clad Coin Rings?
As far as US coin currency goes, Quarters and Half Dollars minted prior to 1965 contain 90% pure silver; (the remaining 10% of the metal is mostly copper). These coins are very desirable to make into coin rings, as silver is fairly easy to work with once heated; and they are relatively easy to obtain in great condition. Your local coin store or online sites such as eBay are good places to go to pick some up at a reasonable price.

To Note: starting with the 1965 JFK Half Dollars, the percentage of silver content in the coin was reduced to 40% (also known as silver clad), and in 1971, silver was eliminated entirely from the half dollar coins.

1965 JFK

A 1965 JFK Half Dollar contains 40% silver content

 

The “Clad” Factor:
Another option for people is to use the everyday change that’s in their pocket or at home in a jar. A great coin to begin practicing making coin rings are the Washington Quarters minted from 1965-present. This main benefit to using these types of coins is because there is no silver content in the coin. and if you ruin it in the process, you’re only out the 25 cents. Practice really does make perfect, and this is why I highly recommend that people who are just beginning to make coin rings use these clad-type of coins until they get comfortable with the process.

Using “Junk Silver” (and not rare) Coins:
You also want to make sure that the coin you are planning on using does not have any “numismatic” value; meaning that it is not a rare coin (with a low amount minted for example), that can be worth a lot of money.

Some great coins to use to make coin rings are called “junk silver” coins; a term for coins that are made of 90% silver that have no numismatic value. Rather, their value is mainly based on the coin’s silver content and not its condition or rarity.

If you are unsure as to the value of a particular coin, one resource you can go to is called: THE OFFICIAL RED BOOK: A Guide Book of United States Coins. There you can find the relative value of a particular coin based on factors such as condition and rarity. They have an online version that you can access by clicking here.

 

Avoiding the “Green” Finger: 

Example of a clad (non-silver) Washington Quarter coin ring.

Example of a clad (non-silver) Washington Quarter coin ring.

When using non-silver (clad) coins to make into coin rings, sometimes your finger can turn a greenish-color. This is primarily due to the nickel and copper metals reacting to the temperature changes of your skin.

green finger

Oxidation from wearing a clad coin ring

Gold!
Another option is to use gold plating on your clad coin. Below is a 1972 JFK Half Dollar that I plated in 24K gold to see how it would turn out. I was very impressed! Just realize that over time the gold plate will wear off, depending on how often the coin ring is worn, whether or not it gets dinged or scratched, etc.

1972 JFK 24K gold-plated Half Dollar

1972 JFK 24K gold-plated Half Dollar

 

Clear coat-it!
Although not permanent, the most inexpensive way to temporarily avoid the oxidation is by applying women’s clear nail polish to the finished clad coin ring and letting it dry for a few hours. This provides a barrier between the clad coin ring and your skin. How long the coat of nail polish lasts on your clad coin ring will depend on how often you wear the ring, if you sweat a lot, etc.

Clear nail polish

Clear nail polish

These are just some of the key factors in coin selection to consider before making a coin ring. Just remember to have fun, don’t be afraid to make mistakes, and enjoy the process!

To see what coin ring making tools I currently offer, visit My Shop.

4 things to look for when buying Reduction Dies to make coin rings

People often ask me questions relating to reduction dies, which are a critical component necessary when making coin rings. Reduction, (also known as “compression” or “reducer” dies), are conically-pitched (or cone-shaped) pieces of round steel that are used in the process of folding over and then reducing coins to make into coin rings.

Oftentimes, people aren’t familiar with the best places to go to get these reduction dies, or the proper questions to ask the person offering them before making their purchase.

Here are a few key points to remember asking before buying any reduction dies. The following four components should be in place if you want to have reduction dies that will give you both long-term usage and better wear-and-tear resistance:

 

Question #1: are the dies made from wear-resistant and hardened stainless steel?
The Hardened Stainless Steel that I use is very tough, durable, and has some of the best wear and rust-resistance than most other types of metal that people are choosing to use.

I work with machinists who are true craftsmen at their trade and they are able to produce an ultra smooth, mirror-like finish to the inner die wall faces that allows for the least amount of friction and therefore easier reduction of even the largest and toughest coins. If you look closely at most others’ dies, you can see somewhat of a rough finish on the face of the dies, which can adversely affect their use.

 

 

Question #2: are the inner walls of the reduction dies fine-smoothed and polished?
This is a critical aspect of having a quality reduction die that shouldn’t be overlooked. Having an ultra smooth inner die-wall finish, (which is the part of the die that makes contact with the outer edge of the coin that you are either folding or reducing), allows for minimal friction and force needed to forge the coin. Damage to the outer reeded edge of the coin isn’t likely to occur as a result either.

Below is a close-up photograph of a one-sided reduction die that has a very rough and scored inner die wall finish; as seen by the heavy tooling and score marks by the red arrows:

Heavy tool marks and scoring by the red arrows on this poorly-machined one-sided reduction die

Heavy tool marks and scoring by the red arrows on this poorly machined one-sided reduction die

CoinRingUSA’s reduction dies are some of the smoothest, finely finished and highest-quality dies available today on the market:

This leads to the next important question to ask…

Question #3: are the reduction dies precision CNC-machined?
You may or may not have heard of this term before, but the “CNC” in machining is an abbreviation for “Computer Numerical Control”. It simply means that computers control the use and operation of manufacturing tools such as mills, lathes, routers and grinders.

The key benefit to this is that it produces the exact same result each and every time. Even the best human operator will have small variations between finished results, whereas a CNC machine will produce exactly the same result every time it is run.

Where this can come into play with the reduction dies is having the ability to machine the exact same inner die wall pitch throughout all of the dies; down to thousandths of an inch consistently every time. The reduction dies that I offer are all precision CNC-machined.

 

Question #4: are the universal reduction dies double-sided?
This is mainly an issue of time, skill level, and cost to the person making the dies. (*** With the exception of the new “Swedish Wrap” extrusion dies that are single-sided), the issue with the photo below of a 1-sided reduction die is that it becomes difficult to continue folding over and reducing a coin, due to the fact that you only have one size diameter die opening to work with. You’ll often end up buying multiple 1-sided reduction dies if you go this route.

notice the conical shape of the die extends all the way from the top to the bottom of this 1-sided die

Notice that the conical pitch of the inner wall extends all the way from the top to the bottom of this 1-sided die

It’s much better to have a set of double-sided reduction dies that follow what I call a “Pairing Order”, which is simply having dies that have diameter sizes in sequential descending order, such as a die with a 1.4″ inch diameter opening on one side, and then a 1.3″ inch diameter opening on the other side of the same reduction die.

In the sizing example above, you would simply flip the die over after you’ve folded the coin over on the 1.4″ inch side, and begin folding the same coin down into the 1.3″ inch diameter side of your reduction die. This makes the task of coin ring-making so much more effective and time-efficient; as you in essence have “2-dies-in-1”.

All of the reduction dies that I offer are double-sided with the sizes precision-engraved on each corresponding side for easy identification, as shown below:


Lastly, the picture below is of a coin ring that I made recently using the double-sided reduction dies. Notice the amount of outer detail that has remained intact as well as the condition of the outer reeded-edge portion of the coin:

If you make sure that all of the aspects above are covered when purchasing your reduction dies, you will have coin ring tools that will produce a beautifully-finished coin ring that will last you a long time.


To see and purchase the Reduction Dies that I offer, click here.

If you don’t see a particular item that you’re looking for such as the specialty reduction dies or the coin center punch tool, it’s because I am temporarily out of stock due to high demand. If that happens, please reach out to me by clicking on the “Contact” tab in the upper right-hand corner and I will get back to you as soon as I am restocked, thanks!