How to STOP the “Slop” in a well-worn Coin BEFORE Making it into a Coin Ring

Oftentimes people make a coin ring out of a circulated coin. This is fine, except that there can be some “slop”, or play, from the distance of the edge of the reeded part of the coin and the retaining washer of your center punch kit, causing it to not fit snugly into the washer. The end result of this can be a slightly off-centered hole punched into the coin.

Notice the well-worn reeded edge of the coin.

Notice the well-worn reeded edge of the coin.

 

Typical retaining washer and a Walking Liberty Half Dollar coin:

sloppy coin2

Notice the “gap” between the reeded-edge of the coin and the retaining washer, (by the red arrow).

 

Another area where this coin “slop” can show up is when using my Stabilizer Reduction Dies; where the coin will seem to wiggle inside the top face of the die before you begin to fold it down, (again due to the gap caused by a well-worn or circulated coin).

sloppy coin3

Notice the slight gap between the reeded-edge of the coin and the outer edge of this Stabilizer Reduction Die due to wear, (by the red arrows).

 

A quick and easy fix to this problem is to use a piece of paper towel both BEFORE you punch a center hole into your coin, and before you begin the process of folding it down into a Stabilizer Reduction Die.

No more gap and a snug fit, ready for center-hole punching!

No more gap and a snug fit, ready for center-hole punching!

The paper towel will take up the slack that comes from using a circulated or well-worn coin and will give you a tight, snug fit; ensuring that your coin will not move either inside the washer (above), or inside the reduction die, (below).

A snug fit with no gaps!

A snug fit with no gaps!

 

Using this easy tip will give you a perfectly-centered hole punched and folded-over coin; resulting in a better-looking coin ring!

 

 

 

Tips for protecting your coin ring’s detail while forging it

What’s the best way to protect the inner and outer detail of my coin while I’m making it into a coin ring?

This is a question that I recently received from a customer of mine. There are some simple ways to protect your coin ring’s inner and outer detail while you’re forging it. In my own practice, I have 3 different tools that I can use when initially folding over, expanding, and then reducing the coin into a reduction die for final shaping:

1. A Ring Sizing Machine
This is my personal favorite.
A Durston ring sizing machine

A Durston ring sizing machine

2. A 1-ton Arbor Press
A Harbor Freight 1-ton arbor press

A Harbor Freight 1-ton arbor press

3. A 12-ton Shop Press (this is definitely way more press than you will ever need to use to make a coin ring; as you can easily use the 6-ton “A-frame” tabletop shop press from Harbor Freight if you want to).
12-ton Harbor Freight shop press

12-ton Harbor Freight shop press

Goal: to keep the reeded edge intact!
The outer reeded edge of Morgan Silver Dollars

The outer reeded edge of Morgan Silver Dollars

The best way to protect the inner detail of the coin as you begin to fold it down into your reduction die is to use the New and Improved Folding Cones. This method of folding leaves no marks, scratches, or marring, thus preserving 100% of the detail on the inside of the coin. (See photos below for reference):
Folding Cone pic COPY

Using a New Folding Cone to fold an American Silver Eagle with a Ring Sizer Machine

Improved Universal Folding Cones and Spacer Set, available for purchase at: www.FoldingCones.com

Improved Universal Folding Cones and Spacer Set, available for purchase at: http://www.FoldingCones.com

To purchase a Set of the 4 Universal Folding Cones and Spacer Kit, go to: www.FoldingCones.com

The key to protecting the outer edges of the coin ring as you’re reducing it is to use some impact-resistant plastic tape, which works very well in that it provides a buffer between the edge of the coin and either the ram head on your ring sizing machine, the press arm on a shop press, or the square ram on a 1-ton arbor press.

Below is a picture of my “Durston” Ring Sizing machine. Notice the thin grey layer of impact-resistant protective tape covering the ram head, (directly on top of the plastic bearing ball). This is what acts as a “buffer” and protects the outer edge of the coin that is facing UP from the reduction die as you are reducing it for shaping or final sizing of the coin ring.

Stabilizing Reduction Die pic

The impact-resistant tape (shown by the red arrows below), is also great for covering the bare metal on the expanding splines of the ring-sizing machine. This acts as a barrier between the inner side of the coin that is making contact as you are expanding it down the splines; also leaving no marks, scratches, or marring; thus protecting the inner detail of the coin ring as a result. (See photo below:)

Impact-resistant tape on the splines of my ring sizing machine.

Impact-resistant tape on the splines of my ring sizing machine.

Below is an example of the crisp inner detail of a finished proof 1975 Half Dollar from the country of Belize that I recently made for a customer, using the impact-resistant tape and the plastic bearing balls.

If you use these simple tools, your coin rings will turn out with striking detail!


Visit my Shop Page for all of the highest quality coin ring-making tools that I have to offer.

 

Belize Coin inner detail

Belize Coin inner detail

What types of coins make the best coin rings?

There are several factors to consider when selecting a coin to make into a coin ring; here are some main points to keep in mind:


Condition:
The main point to keep in mind is that the overall condition of the coin that you start out with will be the condition of your coin ring once you’ve finished the forging process. You want to make sure that the coin you’re using has as much detail intact on both the obverse (front) side and reverse (back) side as possible.

Worn US Quarter

A well-worn US Quarter

In the photo above, you would end up with a coin ring that was excessively worn on both sides of your coin ring.

In contrast, the particular Walking Liberty Half Dollar coin (shown below), has really good detail and would make a great coin ring. These coins were minted between 1916-1947 and contain 90% silver.

A Walking Liberty Half Dollar in good condition.

A Walking Liberty Half Dollar in good condition.

 

Silver or Clad Coin Rings?
As far as US coin currency goes, Quarters and Half Dollars minted prior to 1965 contain 90% pure silver; (the remaining 10% of the metal is mostly copper). These coins are very desirable to make into coin rings, as silver is fairly easy to work with once heated; and they are relatively easy to obtain in great condition. Your local coin store or online sites such as eBay are good places to go to pick some up at a reasonable price.

To Note: starting with the 1965 JFK Half Dollars, the percentage of silver content in the coin was reduced to 40% (also known as silver clad), and in 1971, silver was eliminated entirely from the half dollar coins.

1965 JFK

A 1965 JFK Half Dollar contains 40% silver content

 

The “Clad” Factor:
Another option for people is to use the everyday change that’s in their pocket or at home in a jar. A great coin to begin practicing making coin rings are the Washington Quarters minted from 1965-present. This main benefit to using these types of coins is because there is no silver content in the coin. and if you ruin it in the process, you’re only out the 25 cents. Practice really does make perfect, and this is why I highly recommend that people who are just beginning to make coin rings use these clad-type of coins until they get comfortable with the process.

Using “Junk Silver” (and not rare) Coins:
You also want to make sure that the coin you are planning on using does not have any “numismatic” value; meaning that it is not a rare coin (with a low amount minted for example), that can be worth a lot of money.

Some great coins to use to make coin rings are called “junk silver” coins; a term for coins that are made of 90% silver that have no numismatic value. Rather, their value is mainly based on the coin’s silver content and not its condition or rarity.

If you are unsure as to the value of a particular coin, one resource you can go to is called: THE OFFICIAL RED BOOK: A Guide Book of United States Coins. There you can find the relative value of a particular coin based on factors such as condition and rarity. They have an online version that you can access by clicking here.

 

Avoiding the “Green” Finger: 

Example of a clad (non-silver) Washington Quarter coin ring.

Example of a clad (non-silver) Washington Quarter coin ring.

When using non-silver (clad) coins to make into coin rings, sometimes your finger can turn a greenish-color. This is primarily due to the nickel and copper metals reacting to the temperature changes of your skin.

green finger

Oxidation from wearing a clad coin ring

Gold!
Another option is to use gold plating on your clad coin. Below is a 1972 JFK Half Dollar that I plated in 24K gold to see how it would turn out. I was very impressed! Just realize that over time the gold plate will wear off, depending on how often the coin ring is worn, whether or not it gets dinged or scratched, etc.

1972 JFK 24K gold-plated Half Dollar

1972 JFK 24K gold-plated Half Dollar

 

Clear coat-it!
Although not permanent, the most inexpensive way to temporarily avoid the oxidation is by applying women’s clear nail polish to the finished clad coin ring and letting it dry for a few hours. This provides a barrier between the clad coin ring and your skin. How long the coat of nail polish lasts on your clad coin ring will depend on how often you wear the ring, if you sweat a lot, etc.

Clear nail polish

Clear nail polish

These are just some of the key factors in coin selection to consider before making a coin ring. Just remember to have fun, don’t be afraid to make mistakes, and enjoy the process!

To see what coin ring making tools I currently offer, visit My Shop.